Going into the fourth season of “The Righteous Gems,” costume designer Christina Flannery didn’t know that this 12 months was going to be the present’s swan tune — or maybe extra precisely, after Episode 8, its gator tune. Sequence creator and star Danny McBride stored that info near the chest through the prep course of, however Flannery advised IndieWire that realizing whether or not or not there could be extra “Gems” hardly mattered.
By the point the present had gotten to the civil conflict prelude that opens Season 4, to say nothing of the troubled manufacturing strategy of “Teenjus” and Eli’s (John Goodman) equally troubled retirement, there was no bucket checklist left for the costume design workforce. The problem and the enjoyment of designing for “The Righteous Gems” is that it has been maximalist from the very begin. Discovering new levels of colourful fits, flowing capes, and animal print jumpsuits supported the present’s tone from the start, however has more and more develop into a part of the HBO sequence’s comedy in its personal proper.
Flannery, who picked up the costume designer baton from Sarah Trost in Season 3, credit a collaborative openness, as a lot because the frequently diversified and hilarious situations supplied by the writers, with serving to her and her workforce discover “The Righteous Gems” suits that, effectively, match. By specializing in the performers — what could be enjoyable for them or give them comedy instruments to play with — the costume division by no means will get misplaced in a sea of ruffled collars and furry fits. However in addition they know that completely every part, clothes-wise, is on the desk to strive.
That steadiness has helped Flannery discover a nuance in displaying the ridiculous ego, say, of Kelvin’s (Adam Devine) sequined swimsuit, whereas additionally utilizing these silver sparkles to set off his popping out speech on the Prime Christ Following Man of the Yr competitors. Flannery sat with IndieWire to unpack, or maybe to lastly pack away, the perfect of “The Righteous Gems” Sunday Finest.
This interview has been edited for readability and size.
IndieWire: Was there something left in your bucket checklist for the present, going into this final season? How do you consider capping the work on a comedy that’s this vibrant and large?
Flannery: I didn’t comprehend it was the final season as a result of Danny didn’t inform anyone. It’s all the time been this mysterious factor that’s happening with “Gems,” and we simply by no means know something. However due to Season 3 and the way a lot Danny let me push it, I mentioned, “Fuck it, let’s push it much more,” ?
Danny is simply all the time throwing shit at me and Richard [A. Webb, the production designer]. Once I bought the script for the Civil Conflict episode, I used to be like, ‘I assumed you mentioned that it was going to be chiller this season?!’” However every part I wish to do, I’m allowed to do, and I’ve the cash and the assist to do it, and the crew. So, [we] shoot for the celebrities.
With that Civil Conflict episode, for example, as a fancy dress designer, I actually, actually love filthy stuff. There’s this movie, “All Quiet on the Western Entrance,” and I really feel like that was one of many references I used to verify we went filthy. These individuals are carrying the identical garments endlessly. So we simply had a station posted up and we have been slathering all of us, all people was filthy themselves from protecting [all the actors] head to toe with filth.
And Bradley [Cooper], he’s a badass. He very a lot needed to push it and go tremendous filthy as effectively.
You do push it, no matter path meaning, and with the modern garments, too. Understanding the characters in addition to you do now, how does that aid you intensify what’s happening with them via their clothes?
You are taking regardless of the storyline is. For instance, with Child Billy [Walton Goggins], he had an attention-grabbing storyline that was totally different from final season, and each season earlier than, actually. I really feel like he’s modified somewhat bit. So with him particularly changing into a director and all that, I needed to lean into the gross porn star from the ‘70s for his vibe. And the work is simply persevering with to push that.
Like, particularly with Judy [Edi Patterson], you’re all the time checking in [to find] that stunted ingredient in her. She has an outfit this season that appears like if “Fairly Fairly Princess” met that Versace J-Lo costume. She’s attempting to be horny, however she will be able to’t pull it off.
All of the Gems’ senses of grandeur are gorgeous and don’t fairly match as much as what’s taking place. That’s a good way to consider their vogue.
We’re simply attempting to remain in that world, however then observe the storylines as they go. Like, with BJ [Tim Baltz], his storyline in Season 4 is so totally different, and the way can we make that work? All people’s stylized, however how can we strip him down as a result of he’s in a wheelchair now? That was one of many extra difficult challenges of the season was this query of how can we come again a bit? How can we convey him down somewhat bit? That’s form of how we give it some thought.
You realize, spending a lot time growing much more of those bizarre, particular builds that form of set us aside from most exhibits that I see — I haven’t seen a number of these items completed.
Definitely not on a comedy finances.
In fact, there are going to be exhibits which might be going to be, like, “Holy shit, this woman is means too far.” However my hope is that folks will see my work and [be more open] to convey bizarre shit to the desk that you simply usually wouldn’t be capable of.
Simply studying learn how to handle doing all of it on the identical time, and leaping from the Civil Conflict, which is insane, to the telethon, which can also be insane, and doing 500 million costumes on high of that, , leaping throughout on the identical time actually units you up for achievement. I’m coming into my subsequent present, and I don’t assume I’m ever going to come back throughout a present that was as difficult and over-the-top as “Gems.” So my hope is that it’s given me a number of development as a designer, and I’m somewhat bit extra assured with myself.
Like, Danny permitting me to blow it up and go loopy this season, all of it simply will depend on what we’re doing. However one thing that was actually necessary to me — I’m queer myself and simply seeing, lastly, Keefe (Tony Cavalero) and Kelvin truly doing one thing that’s so wonderful. I [thought about] Siegfried and Roy, leaning into that loopy shit, but in addition closing the chapter on them. After we began early on, it was actually necessary to determine what they have been going to put on and learn how to make that story such a robust, wonderful factor.
I believe all of us within the present, and actually, viewers as effectively, we’re like, “Lastly, man!” We’ve got waited so lengthy for these two to be out and to have this factor referred to as Prism, the place we bought to do ridiculous costumes and a lot stuff that you simply don’t even see behind the scenes. You see bits and items, however there’s a lot that goes into this present, and we’re simply very fortunate that you simply get one snippet of it. However it takes days and days of fittings and tons and tons of purchasing and only a ton of effort to get these little pops [from the background].
However that’s how it’s working in movie, ? You by no means know what’s going to really make it on the display, however you must create a complete world.
“The Righteous Gems” season finale airs Might 4 on Max.